16 different types of Lipsomes used in cosmetics:
Liposome Cosmetics Types Of Liposomes Applications
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1. Context
1.1. Composition
Although in the manufacture of liposomes a wide variety of amphiphilic molecules are employed, which may have uncharged positively, negatively or 2 oppositely charged polar heads, the membrane of liposomes is essentially formed by natural or synthetic phospholipids in which adding cholesterol will increase their stability. The properties of liposomes depend on the characteristics of the used structural phospholipids. Phospholipids often used in liposomes are lecithins, which are mostly extracted from natural sources such as egg, soya bean, or synthesized. Lecithins are mixtures of glycerophospholipids, which phosphatidylcholine is the most common. Another commonly compound that is used in liposomal membranes is cholesterol. Cholesterol itself does not cause a double-layered structure, though when added to the compound, enable liposome to keep the entrapped substance inside for a longer time. Based on sophistication, other stabilizers may play a role as well (1-3).
2. Evidence Acquisition
2.1. History
The possibility of forming vesicular structures from amphiphilic molecules in aquatic systems was initially speculated by Bernard (1947) during microscopic observations of myelin bodies formed with ammonium oleate in water. Bangham and Horne (1992), via electron microscopy, observed the disparity of phosphatidylcholine (lecithin) or its combination with cholesterol in water by performing negative staining using 2% sodium phosphotungstate and ammonium molybdates. Conclusions showed that a decent number of vesicles of diverse sizes were formed after shaking or sonication. Later, Wizeman dubbed these vesicles, Liposomes, which consists of Lipos (fat) + soma (body) (4).
Until early 1980s liposomes were just used as a synthetic model of bio membranes and then as a vehicle for delivery of drug molecules. Mezei and Gulasekharam reported the efficacy of liposomes for exploitation in delivery of drugs with topical approach (5).
The first liposomal cosmetic product introduced into the commercial market was the Capture anti-aging cream by firm Christian Dior in 1986, which has been followed by many other products.
In field of skin care also Laboratories RoC launched 2 products in 1987 and 1990 that were Myosphere, the first emulsion with inclusion of liposomes and the first liposomal facial cream for men. For body care, the first liposomal formulation was introduced in 1987 and many other products, which the majority of them that claimed to be effective for slimming were manufactured after that. In 1988 and later, other skin protectives such as sunscreens or self-tanning products were also turned out.
Liposomal products in cosmetics are not limited to skin care and for hair care, in 1989 a liposomal formulation was prepared. However, not many other liposomal products applicable for hair came to the market since then.
The first product containing liposomes for make-up was a powder produced in 1988 followed by mascara and different foundations (6).
2.2. Definition
Liposomes are spherical vesicles in which their central aqueous section is surrounded by one or more of a bilayer membrane (Lamella) that is frequently enclosed by aquatic environments. These vesicles are formed when amphiphilic lipids confront with aqueous milieu. They can vary in size from 15 nm to several microns. In the last 30 years, the application of liposome has been expanded from drug delivery to the cosmetic field and it is the most widely known cosmetic delivery system nowadays. Owing to their unique structure, liposomes can be utilized as a delivery system, carrying hydrophilic agents through their enclosed aqueous section, and lipophilic substances via the nonpolar tails of the bilayer section (7-9).
3. Results
3.1. Types of Cosmetic Liposomes
Based on composition and indications, cosmetic liposomes divide to different types. Depending on the features we want our cosmetic product possess, we can use one of these types.
Transferosomes: Transfrosomes are highly deformable, reactive, and efficient liposomes applied until now for direct transdermal drug delivery. In regards to their small dimension (300 - 200 nm), they can easily penetrate the skin and pass across the skin’s stratum corneum by using intracellular or transcellular route with the help of 2 elongated elastic layers on their surface. These species of liposomes are made of phospholipids, cholesterol with addition of some surfactants like sodium cholate (cholic acid salt) (8, 9).
Niosomes: Niosomes are small vesicles composed of non-ionic surfactants from alkyl or dialkyl polyglycerol ether class. In cosmetics and skin care, the use of niosomes is very useful due to the fact that it can improve the product effectiveness and increases its penetration, increases bioavailability of poorly absorbed ingredients, and enhances the stability of drugs (3, 8, 9).
Novasomes: Novasomes are non-phospholipid oligolamellar lipid vesicles of 0.1 - 1.0 microns that are a variety of liposomes or modified niosomes synthesized by combining polyoxyethylene fatty acids’ monoester, cholesterol, and free fatty acids with a ratio of 74/22/4. They offer further superiority for being used in cosmetic preparations by providing the ability to cleave to skin or hair shafts. This also enables sustained release and enhances the effectiveness and texture of these cosmetics (10).
Marinosomes: These types are made from marine lipid extracts that contain a high rate of Eicosapentaenoic acid and Docosahexaenoic acid that are omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids. Metabolized by the skin’s epidermal enzymes, they change to their anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative metabolites, which helps in healing many of the skin’s inflammatory problems. The toxicity studies shows that this category of liposomes is safe for skin and eye contact (3, 9).
Ultrasomes: Ultrasomes are a unique category of liposomes that are formed by entrapment of the endonuclease extracted from Micrococcus luteus. They help detect ultraviolet radiation harm to the skin and increase the speed of treatment by up to 4 times. Ultrasomes also act as immunity system protectives by eliminating the destructive effect of ultraviolet radiation to the DNA and inhibiting the expression of some cytokines including the tumor necrosis factor alpha and interleukin 1, 6, and 8 as well as diminish the risk of skin cancer (9).
Photosomes: photosomes act by releasing photolysis enzymes extracted from the marine plant Anacystinidulans. They are extensively used in sunscreens, which prevents light from damaging the cell's DNA, therefore preventing the suppression of the immune system and reducing the risk of cancer induction (9).
Ethosomes: These varieties of liposomes are soft and flexible multilayer vesicles composed of phospholipid phosphatidylcholine, water, and 20% - 50% ethanol. Ethosomes are non-invasive carriers that enable the component penetrate deeply into the skin layers or enter systemic circulation. High concentrations of ethanol make ethosomes unique. Since ethanol is known to cause an imbalance in the arrangement of the skin’s two-lipid layer, it can penetrate the horny layer when mixed with a vesicle. Compared with conventional liposomes, they offer better features for efficient delivery of cosmetics to the skin in terms of both quantity and depth (9).
Asymmetric oxygen carrier system (AOCS) liposomes: this system is designed for skin oxygenation. The oxygen carrier vesicles have a perfluorocarbon nucleus and a phospholipid layer enfolded by a dual-layer membrane.
Perfluorocarbons are able to dissolve great amounts of different gases including oxygen, however, they have a hydrophobic structure making them immiscible with water. Hence, by placement of them in the center of a liposomal vesicle, we can design suitable systems for transporting oxygen to the skin (3, 9).
Yeast based liposomes: These are derived from yeast cells and provide vitamin C for skin that help in repairing, soothing, and oxygenating the skin. They stimulate skin fibroblasts in their liposomal form, which makes the skin feel healthier. When the liposome is used as a carrier, cellular vitamin C intake increases significantly (3, 9).
Phytosome: they are advanced herbal preparation of liposomes developed by mixing phospholipids and botanical extracts such as flavonoids, glycosides, and terpenoids. Phytosomes improve skin absorption of phytoconstituents and are broadly used in cosmetics for their high lipid profile and enhanced skin penetration (11).
Sphingosome: Sphingosomes are liposomes constituted of ceramides for the aim of normalizing the damaged or dehydrated skin with respect to the fact that ceramides or other analogous molecules can compensate the water deficiency and rehabilitate the skin’s barrier function (1).
Nanosome: Nanosomes are very small liposomes formed from highly pure phosphatidylcholine in a low nanometer size range. They are applied as anti-aging serum for enhanced performance designed to upgrade skin to a healthy and youthful looking stage (12).
Glycerosome: glycerosomes are modified liposomes containing glycerol in addition to phospholipids. Their special features include the ability to deliver cosmeceutical active ingredients to the skin with high performance, healing, beautification properties. Lately, unilamellar glycerosomes containing quercetin were designed with the size of 80 - 110 nm, which showed to improve skin defensive activity. The future prospect is using them for manufacture of antioxidant skin creams (13).
Oleosome: oleosomes are natural liposomes and a reservoir of oils, vitamins, and pigments. They are found in a variety of oil bearing plant seeds or fruits and proven to be efficacious delivery systems in personal care.
Oleosomes made up of seabuckthorn fruit flesh demonstrated high stability and antioxidant properties (14).
Catezome: catezomes are novel non-phospholipid vesicles with a cationic surface charge prepared from fatty acid salts of quaternary amines that are amphipathic molecules. These liposomes with hydrophilic or hydrophobic cosmeceutical payloads have the ability to be preserved by both hair and skin and are ideal delivery systems, especially when penetration is not of acceptance or when we expect manageable penetration (15).
Invasome: Invasomes are the liposomal vesicles comprising small amounts of ethanol plus terpenes or terpene mixtures, which act as potent carriers with elevated skin penetration properties. Invasomes are soft liposomal vesicles with great membrane fluidity. The attendance of ethanol and terpenes gives the invasome specific features, which cause to get the simultaneous benefit of liposomes as potential carriers and trepenes, which promote the skin permeability and cutaneous delivery by altering the order of stratum corneum packing (16).
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